On coffee "defects"

In the coffee world there is a bit of a controversy over whether certain tastes in coffees are defects or unique and desireable attributes. Perhaps the most famous of these is the wild (literally and figuratively) coffee of Yemen. The taste profile of coffees from Yemen is often winey, with tastes of currant and other berries, as well a natural chocolate note. The best cup of coffee I've ever had was a Mocha-Sanani (from Yemen), yet I've never been able to reproduce that taste, though I bought Sanani from the same roaster just a month after my first memorable cup. The reason--Sanani coffee is harvested, often, from wild trees in an unregulated manner. The coffee varies greatly from bag to bag--even cup to cup. Often the coffee cherries are harvested not only from the tree, but from the ground where they have fallen. These coffees are harvested, perhaps, by goat-herders looking to make a suplemental income, or by other coffee "non-profesionals" who follow no regulations in harvesting and processing their coffee. The amazing charactersitics of these beans come, partially, from the coffee-cherry drying, perhaps fermenting, on the bean. In Latin-America, a coffee processed this way would be considered majorly defective, and would be sold for rock-bottom prices. Whereas coffee from Yemen (like the Sanani) garner prices far above the market average and are prized by top roasters.

Defect or Desirable?

I fall on the "Desireable" side of the fence.