On The Beauty of Espresso
Most of you don't ever see it--rich, redish-brown, oozing like honey; settling in layers like freshly poured Guiness. Espresso. At least, espresso when it's done right.
It's done wrong most of the time in most shops. Not ours, but most. In this little town, I can think of only one other place where I would drink a straight espresso.
So I'm not exagerating when I say that most of you don't ever see it.
Oh. And the taste. When it's done right, it's sweet, it's earthy, it's fruity--not bitter, not biting. Think caramel, not cheap tequila. When it's right, you don't have to brace yourself and throw it down the back of your throat like I used to do when I worked for the beast. No--it's perfectly sippable.
As David Schomer, Espresso Geek #1, says, Espresso done right tastes like coffee smells.
Yeah right, you're thinking. I know. I thought it, too, when I first heard it. No, I was wrong. You are wrong. The geek is right, and I am his geek disciple now.
Tuesday, June 27, 2006
Monday, June 05, 2006
In Defense of the Giant Green Beast (the store formerly known as Starbucks)
A lot of people come into the shop with complaints about The Green Beast. I often agree with them. But today I thought Iwould defend the Souless Corporate Giant.
The Starbucks case reminds me of a similar one in a completely different field: bicycles. In the buisness of cycling, the company Huffy rules, at least in terms of the shear number of bikes being sold. Everyone knows that they are made from inferior materials and break quickly if you actually ride them. They are heavy--twice as heavy as quality bicycles. They are assembled quickly and poorly. But they are very, very cheap and readily available.
A mountain bike magazine editor once defended Huffy, sayingthat even though he wouldn't willingling ride their bikes, he was glad that they existed because they brought people into the sport. He recounted that he knew countless professionals and enthusiasts who had cut their teeth on Huffy before they graduated to finer bicycles. Without Huffy, perhaps, these people would never have become cyclists.
Starbucks is like Huffy. Yes, they usually over-roast their coffee. Yes, their massive size works against them when it comes to quality and freshness. Yes, they have compromised quality for speed of service with their super-automatic "espresso" machines. But Starbucks introduces millions of people to the world of specialty coffee. If our roastery had tried to open an espresso shop in the mid 1980s, I don't think that we would have been able to survive. Most people had never heard the terms "espresso" or "capuccino" back then. Starbucks has changed that. Now that guy who used to pay 25 cents for gas station coffee can't start his day without a $2 espresso macchiato. No one would have paid $12 for a bag of coffee (or the 1980s equivalent of $12). Now people do not blink an eye when they buy a 3/4# bag for $12 in the grocery store. Without Starbucks, all those amazing, independent roasteries and shops that we love simply couldn't exist--few people would frequent them; Almost no one would appreciate the quality, but most would freak out at the high price.
So, yes, complain all you want; Rage against the Beast! But remember, we owe a lot to them.
A lot of people come into the shop with complaints about The Green Beast. I often agree with them. But today I thought Iwould defend the Souless Corporate Giant.
The Starbucks case reminds me of a similar one in a completely different field: bicycles. In the buisness of cycling, the company Huffy rules, at least in terms of the shear number of bikes being sold. Everyone knows that they are made from inferior materials and break quickly if you actually ride them. They are heavy--twice as heavy as quality bicycles. They are assembled quickly and poorly. But they are very, very cheap and readily available.
A mountain bike magazine editor once defended Huffy, sayingthat even though he wouldn't willingling ride their bikes, he was glad that they existed because they brought people into the sport. He recounted that he knew countless professionals and enthusiasts who had cut their teeth on Huffy before they graduated to finer bicycles. Without Huffy, perhaps, these people would never have become cyclists.
Starbucks is like Huffy. Yes, they usually over-roast their coffee. Yes, their massive size works against them when it comes to quality and freshness. Yes, they have compromised quality for speed of service with their super-automatic "espresso" machines. But Starbucks introduces millions of people to the world of specialty coffee. If our roastery had tried to open an espresso shop in the mid 1980s, I don't think that we would have been able to survive. Most people had never heard the terms "espresso" or "capuccino" back then. Starbucks has changed that. Now that guy who used to pay 25 cents for gas station coffee can't start his day without a $2 espresso macchiato. No one would have paid $12 for a bag of coffee (or the 1980s equivalent of $12). Now people do not blink an eye when they buy a 3/4# bag for $12 in the grocery store. Without Starbucks, all those amazing, independent roasteries and shops that we love simply couldn't exist--few people would frequent them; Almost no one would appreciate the quality, but most would freak out at the high price.
So, yes, complain all you want; Rage against the Beast! But remember, we owe a lot to them.
Thursday, June 01, 2006
On Tipping
I was recently asked for my opinion on tipping at coffee houses. Honestly, the subject doesn't excite me that much. Tip or don't tip; be excessively for it or self-rightously against it--you won't upset me either way.
That said, as a barista, I benefit from tips. That little bit of extra cash is nice. I keep my tips in a safe place and then use them to buy something nice for my wife, or save it so that I can go out to eat when I'm on vacation (if I get a vacation).
I don't think that a tip at the coffee shop should be considered manditory. That is, I'm not offended if a customer does not leave a tip. If a customer doesn't thank me or in some other way show their appreciation, well, that can be troublesome. But a tip--well, it's something extra: a way to say "thank you", or to say "please do an extra good job on my drink" or "I know that my order is a pain in the tushy so here's a little something to keep you from spitting in my drink," or "I love the heart you poured on my Latte last time--please do it again!"
Now, if a customer has a huge order, or changes their mind about their drink after it's already made, or is in some other way especially demanding, then he or she should leave a tip. It's also nice if you leave your change in the tip jar, (and you look cheap if you pocket that 28 cents instead of putting it in the jar).
I think that the real issue here is the relationship of the Barista with the public. The job is physically and emotionally demanding; It requires much care and artistry to be done well. If customers show that they understand these things and are appreciative, either through a tip or through a kind word, then the baristi of the world will be happy; good will and awesome espresso will abound. The alternative is, of course, barista angst...
Larry J.P.
I was recently asked for my opinion on tipping at coffee houses. Honestly, the subject doesn't excite me that much. Tip or don't tip; be excessively for it or self-rightously against it--you won't upset me either way.
That said, as a barista, I benefit from tips. That little bit of extra cash is nice. I keep my tips in a safe place and then use them to buy something nice for my wife, or save it so that I can go out to eat when I'm on vacation (if I get a vacation).
I don't think that a tip at the coffee shop should be considered manditory. That is, I'm not offended if a customer does not leave a tip. If a customer doesn't thank me or in some other way show their appreciation, well, that can be troublesome. But a tip--well, it's something extra: a way to say "thank you", or to say "please do an extra good job on my drink" or "I know that my order is a pain in the tushy so here's a little something to keep you from spitting in my drink," or "I love the heart you poured on my Latte last time--please do it again!"
Now, if a customer has a huge order, or changes their mind about their drink after it's already made, or is in some other way especially demanding, then he or she should leave a tip. It's also nice if you leave your change in the tip jar, (and you look cheap if you pocket that 28 cents instead of putting it in the jar).
I think that the real issue here is the relationship of the Barista with the public. The job is physically and emotionally demanding; It requires much care and artistry to be done well. If customers show that they understand these things and are appreciative, either through a tip or through a kind word, then the baristi of the world will be happy; good will and awesome espresso will abound. The alternative is, of course, barista angst...
Larry J.P.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
